Peptides in creams and serums, such as Matrixyl, copper peptide (GHK-Cu) and Argireline, can subtly improve the skin, but they are not a miracle cure. They work best as part of a routine with sun protection and a good moisturiser.
Why does your jar say 'peptide'?
Cosmetics brands use peptides because they are small enough to reach the upper layer of the skin and can give signals there, for example to produce collagen. You mainly see them in anti-ageing serums and eye creams.
The best-known cosmetic peptides
| Name on the label (INCI) | Known as | Intended for |
|---|---|---|
| Palmitoyl Pentapeptide-4 | Matrixyl | Firmer-looking skin, fine lines |
| Copper Tripeptide-1 | Copper peptide, GHK-Cu | Skin repair, more even-looking skin |
| Acetyl Hexapeptide-8 | Argireline | Less visible expression lines |
| Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1 | Signal peptide | Supports collagen production |
What can you expect?
Honest answer: subtle improvements, not miracles. There are small studies with positive results, often funded by the manufacturer. Peptides work best as part of a routine with sun protection, a good moisturiser and possibly retinol.
A cream is not the same as an injection
GHK-Cu in a serum is a cosmetic product and falls under European cosmetics legislation. The same peptide as an injection is something else entirely: it counts as an unapproved medicine. The IGJ specifically warns against peptides bought online for injection (NL Times).
Buying tips
- Look at the INCI list: is the peptide near the top or right at the bottom?
- Do not combine copper peptides at the same time with strong acids or high-dose vitamin C; use them at different times.
- Give a product at least 6 to 8 weeks before you judge it.
In short
Peptides in skincare are safe and legal, but the effects are modest. See them as an addition to, not a replacement for, sunscreen.
Frequently asked questions
Do peptides in skincare work?
There are small studies with positive results, often funded by the manufacturer. Expect subtle improvements, not miracles.
How long does it take to see an effect?
Give a peptide product at least 6 to 8 weeks before you judge it.
